Biossance Dark Spot Serum is a bright spot (no pun intended) amongst the natural, organic, vegan, clean skincare that is meant to appeal to Gen X and younger Millennials, but which (honestly) rarely stacks up to the more scientific “clinical” skincare products out there. With 10% 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, squalane, and brightening licorice extract, I’m a huge fan of Biossance Dark Spot Serum! For more, read on.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is in 10% Concentration – That’s the Most I’ve Ever Seen!
3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is a new(ish) form of vitamin C, a vitamin C ester. The big advantages here are, first, that it’s more stable than L-ascorbic acid.
Secondly, you need less 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid to produce effects than with other vitamin C derivatives – in fact, you only need about 2% of the ingredient. In one study, a solution containing just 2% 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid was found to improve skin whitening and radiance after just 28 days of twice-daily application (Cosmetics and Toiletries).
Most brands put 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid in their products around 2%, but Biossance Dark Spot Serum has a whopping 10% of the ingredient – which means that you’re getting vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid in, like, 4x the potency of the normal serum.
It’s also more stable than vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid, and it’s properly packaged. Unlike a lot of vitamin C brightening serums out there, Biossance Dark Spot Serum has an airtight pump, so you’re not exposing the vitamin C to light, heat, and air.
Squalane is a Hydrating Ingredient with Anti-Aging Properties
Squalane is naturally present in the skin in concentrations of about 13%. As you age, the amount of squalane in the skin is reduced, and the quality of the squalane produced also decreases. And that’s a shame, because squalane has been shown to have anticancer, antioxidant, drug carrier, detoxifier, skin hydrating, and emollient activity (Advances in Food and Nutrition Research).
Interestingly, Biossance Dark Spot Serum contains squalane with an A, rather than squalene with an E. Squalene with an E is the form that is found within the skin (Advances in Food and Nutrition Research), although squalane with an A has all of the above properties and can also seal moisture into the skin. According to dermatologist Samantha Fisher, M.D., “Squalane can aid in skin-care problems wherein the skin barrier is disrupted and transepidermal water loss is an issue.” (source)
Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract May Be a Tyrosinase Inhibitor
If you read my writing often enough, you’ll know I’m often skeptical of the effectiveness of plant extracts. This is primarily because the active portion of many plant extracts, such as curcumin in turmeric, for instance, is in very low concentration, and the skin doesn’t break the plant extract down well enough to have a meaningful reaction, in many cases.
That said, the shiitake mushroom in Biossance Dark Spot Serum has been found to be a tyrosinase inhibitor (Molecules), and it also has reported healing and soothing properties for the skin. Fine. I won’t buy a product just because it contains a mushroom, but I’ll be OK with it here.
Licorice Extract is Also a Tyrosinase Inhibitor
Licorice is also a melanin production reducer (Archives of Pharmacological Research; Cosmetic Dermatology). Like shiitake mushroom, licorice tends to be less popular than L-ascorbic acid, AHAs, or even kojic acid in skincare products because they are less potent in inhibiting hyperpigmentation, ounce per ounce, than the others. It does, however, pack a punch of its own, and it’s a benefit in Biossance Dark Spot Serum.
If you’re looking for a superior dark spot serum, Biossance Dark Spot Serum can’t be beat. With a whopping 10% of the most potent form of vitamin C on the market today (most brands contain 2% or less), 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, plus anti-aging squalane and lightening licorice extract, this product is definitely the best among the all-natural, vegan crowd of skin care products, and it’s sensational amongst all skin care. Love it.
Ingredients in Biossance Dark Spot Serum
Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin